The Lambani artisans in Sandur , belong to a nomadic tribe more commonly called banjara.

 

The word 'banjara' is said to be derived from a Sanskrit word 'Vanaj' or 'Banaj' meaning a trader.

 

The word Banjar means one who moves or wanders in the jungle. The Banjara's or Vanajara’s were ancient carriers of food grains on the backs of animals. Living in communion with nature, they have retained their own characteristic culture and heritage.

 

The wanderlust of all nomadic tribes gave them a certain gaiety, which is reflected in their song, dance and attire. Having no permanent homes their aesthetic sense was apparent in their clothes, mode of transport, and few personal belongings. Universally, the use of needle and thread is to primarily embellish clothing and other articles of everyday use. 

 

The embroidered objects are also closely linked with the rituals associated with the rites of passage. The Banjara community is one of the traditional Indian communities known for their colourful and heavily embellished garbs and ornaments. 

 

The lambani’s settled in Sandur several years ago and are now a dominant community in and around the taluk of Sandur. They still live in separate tandas or groups away from the city. Their social status has improved considerably over the years. Most of the lambani families now own agricultural lands. 

 

A unique facet of the costume of the Lambadi woman is its elaborate embroidery. This is usually combined with mirror work to produce the glitter and colour that are integral parts of the Lambadi costume. The clothes of the Lambani's reflect their love of life and evolved across the centuries to suit local climatic and social conditions. 

 

Traditionally this embroidery was done on personal items of girls to be married. It was done elaborately on different household accessories that went into the bride's trousseau. The traditional costume of the Lambadi woman glitters with small pieces of mirror, coins and costume jewellery. 

 

The Lambani women's costume comprising of Lehenga, Choli and Odhni are embroidered with bright rainbow-coloured fabrics covered with a mosaic of patchwork mirrors. Their work is sought after by collectors for its vibrancy of pattern and colour, and for the unusual technique of sewing hundreds of small mirrors into the compositions. Each piece depicts an aspect of the Lambani creation myths.

 

This style of embroidery has been handed down from mother to daughter through many generations. Some of the most important features of the Lambani embroidery are:

         

1. Exquisite needle work which is done on different kinds of fabric to create interesting patterns is done by nomadic women of the Banjara tribe only.

         

 2. Banjara embroidery is a unique combination of intricate appliqué, patchwork and also fine embroidery. 

 

3. This embroidery is done with mix of different kinds of raw material like mirrors, shells, aluminium buttons and jewellery pieces.

 

4. Lambani embroidery also to a large extent comprises of the quilting technique which is done on the edge of the garment and  is called "katta".

 

5. The colours on their garments signify their lifestyle. The most commonly used colours are red and yellow. Red signifies marriage and fertility while yellow signifies vitality and strength.

 

6. The distinctiveness of the lambani embroidery is the random designs and bright colours that is so traditional to this tribe. 

 

Using intricate methods of embroidery, the mirrors, shells, jewellery piece etc are affixed to cloth, which is made into dresses, bags, pillow cases, wall hangings, table mats etc. Exquisite purses, dresses, bed spreads and wall hangings are made with intricate needlework. These articles come from the experienced and deft hands of traditional craft women.